During a holiday visit from one of my young nieces, it occurred to me that the little step stools that I made for my two preschoolers (to be able to reach the sinks to wash their hands and brush their teeth) are useful to older children (8-10 ish), too, for reaching taller cabinets and working in the kitchen. My niece had a birthday coming up, so I promised I would make her a step stool and send it to her.

You can see the resulting leg shape with a slight curvature. this would be exaggerated by setting the angle of the legs at about 15 degrees. I used the Mill as an overhead router and came up with a nifty way to clamp curved objects in a parallel vise--note the piece of roundish wood in the vise--a cutoff from a broken sledge hammer handle (from wood splitting--see the early axe modification post ).

I routed the mortises with a 5 degree tapered end mill, reasoning that when driven tight, this would make a super strong joint. Although I still think this was a good idea, I think oak is not the right material for this approach. the wood is too strong and did not compress in the slot as I imagined. this may work better with a softer wood. After routing the brace mortises and assembling the legs, I wanted to true-up the legs to make sure I didn't get any wobble. I built this jig to cut the assembled tops and bottoms flush.
The assembled legs, all trued up on the table saw, still had a little wobble. I found that the assemble could still be "torqued" around to change the relationship of the legs. But on a flat surface with a flat top, the stool is true. I temporarily hot-melt-glued the top in place, then drilled dowel mortises through the top into the legs for the permanent connection. I made the dowels on my Southbend Lathe, again, with a little taper to make the tighter as I drove them in. the result is very sturdy and, I believe, not glue-dependent.

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